Breakaway Cook

Sierra Mackerel with Japanese Citrus

I’ve long been a fan of mackerel,  both cooked and the vinegared saba of sushi restaurants.  Its oils have a rather strong presence, and I’ve found that most people either really like it, or really dislike it.  I still clearly remember the first time I had it; I felt like I could have eaten a dozen! To me the oil is a feature, not a bug; it just needs to be tempered with a little acid, either in the form of citrus or vinegar.

Lots of places around me sell frozen mackerel from Norway, and it tastes great prepared simply, typically just by heating up some olive oil and butter, seasoning the fish with salt and pepper, and pan frying until done, followed by a healthy squeeze of lemon. It’s also a meaty fish — one mackerel is usually enough for two people, if served with salad and some good bread.  A variation on that simple treatment would be to omit the salt, and add a little soy sauce and lemon to the pan toward the end of cooking (soy sauce and lemon like one another very much).

Lately I’ve been eating a new (to me) kind of mackerel called Sierra mackerel. Its oils aren’t quite as strong as the regular mackerel;  it’s a beautifully light fish, chock full of omega 6s. It just tastes like it’s really good for you, and it turns out that it is. My favorite prep for it so far: the simple pan fry described above, but instead of lemon, a small drizzle of Japanese citrus: either yuzu, sudachi, or kabosu. All three are available in bottled form at Nijiya, or any Japanese market. Top with tangerine salt, or whatever your salt of choice is.

I’m working on scoring actual trees of yuzu, sudachi, and kabosu. It’s not easy. But I think I’ve got the right climate for them; now it’s just a matter of convincing the Northern California Rare Fruit Growers to actually come up with some! Has anyone reading this ever seen any of these citrus trees in California? I know a guy in Oakland with a GORGEOUS yuzu tree, packed with hundreds of individual yuzu. I’m not a person who easily gets envious or jealous, but I would KILL to have such a happy yuzu tree!

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Comments (8)

  1. September 7, 2008
    Em said...

    I wonder if the gardening store in Japantown would know where you could get it.

    your Mackerel looks great! :)

  2. September 8, 2008
    Karena said...

    I’ve purchased yuzu from the Hamadas at the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market before, so they might be able to give you a cutting or point you to a good source. I’ve always envied people who can grow citrus. Living in the city’s western fog belt, the best I can do is swiss chard and mint. LOL.

  3. September 8, 2008
    Eric said...

    Great tips, thanks folks!

    Karena, you can add nasturtiums to your list — they like cool fog. And man are they tasty.

  4. September 8, 2008
    helen said...

    I heard about the same guy in Oakland too. Is it true that it takes 18 years for a yuzu tree to bear delicious fruit?

  5. September 25, 2008
    Angela said...

    Gorgeous mackerel. Thanks for the great description of this fish and the excellent preparation tips (lemon and soy? I never would have guessed!). I love the simplicity and lighting of your photo too.

  6. September 25, 2008

    hey..

    i came across the site from tastespotting and the wonderful rustic photo of the mackerel.. i am orig from halifax nova scotia and they were a regular on the bbq by nan in some tin foil.. olive oil and a few lemon slices…

    love to see it being done by pro.. yup you!

    funny enough i just remembered i have one of your books.. love your interest in salt… i have become very interested in flavouring mine as well!!

    take care and please keep doing what you do!

    jonathan
    dailydesignspot.com

  7. September 29, 2008

    I don’t think I’ve had this specific type of mackerel before, but man, do those look so darn good. I love mackerel.

  8. November 15, 2008
    George said...

    A warm water fish, hock full of Omega-6, is not good for you.

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