What could I possibly add to the world’s paeans to the beauty and wonders of Amsterdam? The city’s allure is almost violent; it grips you immediately and doesn’t let go. It seems to force the recollection of some deep place within my brain and body, almost on a molecular level, of some long-forgotten realities of long ago. It’s easy to imagine what life must have been like centuries ago because the Dutch prefer to keep all of that alive through the preservation of their architecture and streets, through life on the canals, and through their emphasis on the good life of time spent in cafes, lots of vacation, and in making every space as cosy and inviting as possible.
Our building is a wonder, a 1650 beauty with a sunny and inviting courtyard, where everyone seems to hang out with their books, computers, newspapers, snacks, and drinks. We’re not going to want to leave! My beverage of choice is a cold Westmalle Trappist double ale, without a doubt my favorite beer on earth. They’re cheap and dangerously available at the local market.
We’ve had one terrific meal (at a place called Divan, a Turkish place in the Jordaan) and a host of eh ones, though the organic bounty at the Saturday farmers’ market (more on this, plus some photos, in the next post, after Saturday) is everything a bay arean could hope for. I’ve been cooking regularly but focusing on things that don’t require lots of knifework; it’s amazing how attached I’ve become to comfortable, sharp knives!
Some sad chicken news, alas: all four became sashimi for a predator, most likely a fox, shortly after we left for Holland. Something dug a little tunnel and came up from underneath. We’re sad about it. All those gorgeous eggs will have to wait.
so sorry to hear about your chickens!
glad to hear about the beauties of amsterdam. it’s an amazing city, isn’t it? hope you get the chance to go to the van gogh museum-i find it simple, breathtaking and sad.
oh, those chickens! i’m sorry to hear about that. dangnabbit little fox!
sounds like a great place – can’t wait to hear more reports. so sorry about the chickens!
so sorry about the chickens! check out the Puccini chocolate shop – they have an amazing dark choc/ginger combo.
One word: rijsttafel!
oh i am so sorry about the chickens!
Ooh, I was just wondering how your trip was going. And reading the beginning of your post, I was thinking, “The weather must be good…” It is a stunning city! Wish I were there now.
there are 2 locations for Puccini chocolate shop the dark chocolate covered ginger is the best but the ‘bones’ are good too
The most memorable dish I had in Amsterdam was a mussel chowder (cream-based) with Indonesian curry overtones. If you see anything like that on a menu, go for it.
So sad to hear of your feathered friends! A very pretty place to visit is Zaanse Schans up north. There are a few pretty little towns but this one is quite pretty. There are a number of tourists but it is wonderful to step back in history (in addition to your already lovely experience!). I was there for the town’s 500 year anniversary. Can’t wait to hear more of your adventures!
My reaction to Amsterdam upon first visiting, was the same as yours – that I already ‘knew’ it on some level and being there was like returning. Weird. Must be some deep urban archetype thing going on.
Happy to hear that you are enjoying Amsterdam, indeed it is a beautiful place. I am very sorry to hear of the fate of your chickens, that makes me sad.
Thanks everyone. By chance I passed by Puccini chocolates today, and loaded up! Expensive as hell but rather huge portions. Rijsttafel is in the queue, as is Marius, yet another restaurant whose chef is an alumnus of Chez Panisse.
Surinamese sandwich today. Excellent stewed chicken, fairly heavily spiced, but not-great bread. I couldn’t get the proprietor to put some good-looking chiles on the sandwich, apparently one just doesn’t do that. Same with pickled onions, which I wanted, but was denied! She said it didn’t go together. same with the herring shops; just one way to eat them! Reminded me of Japan!
Thanks Jonathan for the moules tip — will look out for it.
Someone else recommended Zaanse Schans; we’ll have a car for a few days next week, so we might well check it out. Apparently Kruller-Miller national park is a must-see as well. We’ve got to scrape together some camping gear from Delia’s relatives and make it happen!
Abi — glad to know I’m not alone in the deja vu dept! Maybe it was the children’s books we read as kids? REally weird feeling.
Don’t forget to try out the maatjeshaaring! (Pickled herring). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soused_herring
so great to read of your adventures, will check out that chocolate shop next time I am there. I love Amsterdam.
If you are still around Amsterdam, you might want to check out Balthazar’s Keuken. It serves a weekly 3-course menu of what I would describe as ‘new dutch’. It was super delicious, and reasonably priced for an expensive city, €27 for 3 courses
By total coincidence we have a reservation at Balthazar’s tomorrow evening!