Umami Lasagna
March 20th, 2008 Posted in DishesYou may well be getting tired of me titling things “umami blah blah,” but please be gracious and allow me to tell you about this umami-packed almost-vegetarian pasta-less lasagna.
It all started with a huge pile of baby bella mushrooms (more than two pounds). I chopped them up with an onion and a little garlic confit, and waited for some kind of inspiration to happen. I had plenty of yams from the yam chips experiment, so I thought it might be interesting to layer benriner-ed yams, in place of pasta sheets, in a ceramic lasagna pan and see what else I could come up with to fill some extra layers, and call it lasagna. Here’s how it turned out:
- Layer 1: mandolined yams in the oiled pan
- Layer 2: mushroom mixture plus handful of julienned dried tomatoes
- Layer 3: more yams
- Layer 4: combo of cooked kale and chard and several anchovy fillets plus an egg, all chopped finely
- Layer 4: mandolined fresh carrots that needed to be used up
- Layer 5: sprinkling of Dubliner cheese (major umami going on this crap; tastes like aged gouda)
- Layer 6: more yams
- Layer 7: more mushroom mixture
- Layer 8: more yams and carrots
- Layer 9: dusting of parmesan
So you can see from that list of ingredients that this thing has some serious umami action going. I also dusted with a combination of umami salt and rosemary salt as I went, with plenty of freshly cracked pepper as well. It has a deep and rich flavor–I’m sure I’ll be making this again, using a similar template with different veggies. I almost added some ham I had sitting around, but I actually figured it might have TOO much umami if I did! I may have been right: this certainly doesn’t need any additional umami.
The thing about umami-rich foods is that you’re so delighted with what you’re eating that you tend to eat less of it. And, every bite is so satisfying, with so much going on in the mouth, that you also tend to eat slower — you almost HAVE to slow down to catch it all. One square was more than enough, along with a small side salad. I did have a nice hunk of bread from Della Fattoria, my favorite bakery in the Bay Area, to mop up the lingering umami bits from the plate. With a glass of old vine zin, it all added up to an almost platonic version of a breakaway meal. Everything was Just Right.









11 Responses to “Umami Lasagna”
By Ana on Mar 20, 2008
Eric, could you please, please pretty please give us already this recipe for this una… I’m sorry, umami salt? It’s torturing. Pleeeeeeease? Thanks!
By Ana on Mar 20, 2008
Uh… nevermind! Found it now. You can delete these screams for help
By Claire on Mar 20, 2008
Is there such a thing as too much umami? What happens when all those bold flavors come together like that?
By Eric on Mar 20, 2008
Ana, glad you found it!
Claire — yes, I think there is such a thing. It can get very intense. This lasagna sits right on the border; I wouldn’t want want any more umami than this. That said, it’s really delicious, with wallops of bursting flavor in each bite. On the upside, each bite is so satisfying that you can’t help but pause between bites, which results in eating far less than normal. It’s diet food, but of the very best kind!
By Petra on Mar 20, 2008
Hey there -
With the change in blog formats, I think your umami salt recipe has disappeared - which breaks my heart as I have been dying to try it. Is there any chance of a re-post? I think I can produce a reasonable facsimile but I’d love to try it the way you invented it.
Thanks!
By Eric on Mar 20, 2008
Sorry about that Petra, the link should work now. If not try
http://www.breakawaycook.com/blog/archives/41
By liv blumer on Mar 20, 2008
Eric -
Love the site, all sorts of interesting things I never knew I needed to know. Although I don’t have a specific comment about the lasagne aside from “yum”, I have a question about an ingredient. I’d like to find things to do with caraway seeds. Aside from cabbage I never use it. I’ll bet I ve had the same jar of caraway seeds for 35 years! I once tried to toast the seeds without much effect. I like the flavor and would like to find other applications for it. Any suggestions? Hope you like caraway.
Liv
By Samantabadra on Mar 20, 2008
Would you please define umami? Maybe everyone else knows what it means, but this new reader is lost. Thank you!
By Eric on Mar 20, 2008
Thanks Liv! Alas, I have not yet played with caraway, but I do suggest that you get rid of that 35-year-old jar! Like all spices, it’s best fresh. And with that in mind, I’m going to pick up some fresh caraway seeds next time I’m at the SF Herb Company and start to experiment, because I like the flavor, too. Stay tuned!
By Eric on Mar 20, 2008
Samantabadra,
Umami is the fairly widely accepted fifth addition to the four horsemen of taste: salty, sweet, sour, and bitter. It’s sometimes translated (from the Japanese) as “savory” but that’s not very satisfactory.
Just as there are specific receptors on the tongue that can isolate salty, sweet, sour, and bitter, there are also umami receptors on the tongue that center around molecules of glutamate .Those receptors detect the presence of glutamates, especially glutamates found in “flavor-packed” foods like anchovies, dried tomatoes, miso, soy sauce, fish sauce, parmesan, dried mushrooms, and many other foods. Check out the NY Times article of two weeks ago on the subject:
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/05/dining/05glute.html
(I disagree with some of the assertions in the article–like the one that says umami as a fifth taste has not yet been generally accepted by experts–but overall it’s excellent).
Read more about it at my umami salt entry:
http://www.breakawaycook.com/blog/archives/41